The project springs from
Brunod's desire to crown a life of extraordinary athletic achievements by attempting a record on the highest mountain in the world. He has been intrigued by this feat for many years, even after the incredible records that he set on the highest mountains of two continents: the Aconcagua and Kilimangiaro. Along with two important friends, Dr. Pietro Trabucchi and the well-known alpine guide Antonio Carrel with whom he shared the past two expeditions, Brunod's idea of attempting the climb became a rough project . When the project was submitted to the Governorship of the Valle d'Aosta, a worthy ally was found in the person of the Honorable Luciano Caveri, Director of the Department of Tourism. The project received the attention that it was due making it possible to formulate a concrete plan. In this way the "Everest Vitesse 2005" project was born. Thanks to the co-operation of several guides who are also Brunod's personal friends, a united team was formed with the goal of affording the necessary assistance and providing reasonable hope for the success of the climb and, most of all, safety during the incredible feat. The group assembled the program with consideration for the minimum requisites necessary to obtain the proper assistance and to ensure financial security. After the fundamental and decisive action taken by the Department of Tourism, other communities of the Valle d'Aosta that were familiar with Brunod's activity responded positively to the venture and contributed generously to the project
Description of the climb
The
Northern Face of Mt. Everest was the first side to be explored by the English with the intent of discovering a way to climb to the top. The passage was found in 1921 and was first attempted in 1922, followed by another climb in 1924 in which the alpine guides Irvine and Mallory surely reached an altitude of 8500 where their traces were lost. The theory that they could have reached the top is still subject for discussion today, but it is improbable that proof of a first climb will ever be found.
The base camp on the Tibetan side can be reached directly from Katmandu (the Nepalese capital) in two days by jeep or from the Tibetan capital of Lhasa in five days by motorized vehicle. The second solution for reaching the camp is the best one as it provides the body with an initial acclimatisation. Lhasa is at an altitude of 3700 meters and one never goes below this altitude for the rest of the ascent. The trip continues, by motorised vehicles, to the base camp at the foot of the Rongbuk glacier at an altitude 5150 meters. From this immense gravelled plain one has a perfect view of the high section of Mt Everest, although it is still quite far. This is an odd place that is constantly swept by winds of varying velocity but tempered by the campsites erected by the expeditions and local commercial activities that sprang up around this great caravan.
The first step is the construction of the advanced base camp (ABC) at an altitude that varies between 6400 and 6600 meters. The journey to the ABC is long and runs over a morainic terrain for its entirety thus requiring the use of yaks, those precious animals similar to cows but much smaller and endowed with heavy coats. Thanks to these animals it is possible to travel on a path without touching the glacier. Since the distance is estimated at about 20 kilometres, it is prudent to set up an intermediate camp in order to spread the long trek over two days. Once acclimatised, a climber would cover this distance in no less than six hours with considerable physical and mental exertion.
From the ABC one has a view of the
Great Northeast Wall and the imposing North Col*, the area chosen to host camp 1 at 7000 meters. The distance is short and runs over a glacial terrain that requires skilled mountaineering to overcome several short, steeply inclined seracs. In its entirety, the barrier is around 300 meters high and its average inclination is 40/45 degrees.
Camp 2 is located at around 7700 meters and is reached by following the northern crest, beginning on a wide snow covered ridge and continuing over an easy terrain sprinkled with crumbled rock. The tents are pitched and secured on the open spaces located on the gravelled surface.
After passing a series of small terraces one comes to a balcony from which point the road turns progressively to the right until one reaches a steep snow-field. This fraction of the journey leads to the strenuous slopes that conduct to camp 3 at an impressive altitude of 8300 meters. Due to the reduced space, the tents are usually pitched in areas that are never flat forcing the mountaineers to make use of a precious but uncomfortable rest area. From this point the view is extensive and s can clearly see the Cho-Oyo to the left of the Chgang-Tse and the Shishapangma in the distance.
At this point the trek continues in an area of open wall which alternates steep, snowy canals with simple rock vaults to an altitude of 8500 where one reaches the long eastern crest that leads to the summit by way of the col that bears the same name. Even though the peak of Mt. Everest seems within reach at this point, there are still over 300 meters of vertical ascent in addition to almost two kilometres to cover on foot. During this phase, there are three steppes: the last technical challenges posed by the mountain. The first is twenty meters high and isn't extremely difficult, while the second which lies at an altitude of 8600 meters, seems like an insurmountable foe. The equipment located on the obstacle is comprised of fixed cords and, most of all, an aluminium ladder built in 2004 make it possible to overcome this great difficulty. The third steppe at 8700 meters is little more than a big boulder that forces one to exert further energy.
At this point one is very near, but the last snow-covered slope is extremely steep and doesn't lead directly to the peak, but to a series of ledges on the northern face that attenuate the incline but slightly lengthen the journey. This is the way to the area which is located no more than 50 meters from the actual summit.
Claudio Bastrentaz